Shoe heel and method of making same



Feb. s, 1938.

IIIIIIIIIIII'II A. F. BANCROFT SHOE HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed March 27, 195 7 2 sheets sheet l nven'io 1':

Feb, 8, 1938. A. F; BANCR'OFT 2,107,776

' SHOE HEEL AND METHOP OF MAKING SAME Filed March 27, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 4 m .6 n B fi z Z a a Jazz 3L3. W

Patented Feb. s, 1938 PATENT OFFICE SHOE HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Albert F. Bancroft, West Newton, Mass, assignor to Bancroft-Walker Company, Waltham,

Ma'ss., a corporation of Massachusetts Application March 27, 1937, Serial No. 133,337

6 Claims.

I Thisinvention pertains to improvements in shoe heels andto a method of making the same, and relates more particularly to the manufacture of that typeof heel in which awooden core has its sidesand breast surface covered with sheet material.

Heels having wooden cores are usually covered by the shoe manufacturer as a step in the shoemaking apparatus in order that the covering may '10 conform in respect to material appearance, etc.,

to the other elements of the shoe in which the heel is to become a part. Usually the outer surface (that is to say, the curved rear and lateral edges) of the heel is covered (before the heel is 15 attached to the shoe bottom) with thin leather or fabric matching that used in the shoe upper, although other and contrasting materials are sometimes used, for example, thin celluloid. In a Cuban type heel the breast surface is also covered- (before the heel is attached) with thin sheet material, commonly like that employed in covering the outer heel surface. On the other hand, the breast surface of a Louis heel is usually left uncovered until afterthe heel has been sol 25 cured to the shoe bottom, and is then covered 35 azbulge or ridge adjacent the corner and/or to form a round rather than a sharply angular corner, or alternatively to provide so insecure a :union, of the outer and breast coverings at the iacorners asto invite separation of the covering 7 40 members at these'points, with-consequent gap-.

ing and exposure of 1 the core,-commonly followed by fraying of the raw edges and a resultant ,runslghtly appearance.

1 While it has heretofore been proposed to trim 45 off-,theouter covering flush with the breast surface and then to lap the breast covering over theexposed front edges of the outer covering,

this requires very careful work on the part of the operator, and even when properly done, the breast 50 covering tends readily to separate from the outer covering at the corners. vOn the other hand, if

the margin of the outer covering is turned inwardly over the breast so as to underlap a substantial area of the breast covering material,

1 rounded corner results which, as above noted,

, Cuban and Louis heels.

is undesirable from the standpoint of fine shoeskiving or beveling the edge of the outer covering and/or the margins of the breast covering material, or for turning the edges of the outer or 5 breast covering members inwardly into deep narrow slots cut in the core, such suggestions are notpractical from the standpoint of factory production, since they involve expert, careful and unduly expensive operations.

The principal object of the present invention is to provide an improved wood heel and method of covering heels whereby it is possible, by factory methods and at a reasonable cost, to produce heels whose outer and breast surfaces are 15 neatly and efiectively covered,the corners being sharp and the breast being substantially free from unsightly ridges, although the breast covering overlaps portions of the outer covering to an extent sufficient to prevent unsightly gaping or tendency to become loose and ragged at the corners during use.

A further object is to provide an improved method of covering heels applicable both to Further objects and advantages of the invention will be made manifest in the following more detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawings, wherein Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the core of a Louis heel;

Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the core of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 33 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is; a section similar to Fig. 3, but to larger scale, showing the outer covering applied to the core;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary perspective view of a shoe having a Louis heel and illustrating the step of covering the breast surface in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 6 is a transverse section through the heel of Fig. 5 after the covering is complete;

Fig. 6a is a view similar to Fig. 6, but illustrating a slight modification;

Fig. 7 is a side elevation of the core of a Cuban type heel;

Fig. 8 is a front elevation of the core of Fig. '7;

Fig. 9 isa section on the line 99 of Fig. 8;

'Fig. 10 is a fragmentary perspective view showing a Cuban heel with its sides covered and ready so for application of the breast covering; and

Fig. 11 is a transverse section showing a heel such as that of Fig. 10 with the side and breast surfaces covered.

Referring to the drawings, the numeral l designates a core for a Louis heel, such core usually being of wood but, so far as the present invention is concerned, being of any desired and suitable material. This core has the outer curved surface 2, including the rear and side portions of the heel, and the forward or breast surface 3. This breast surface, in the Louis type heel, extends upwardly and forwardly to form a substantially horizontal portion 3 In accordance with the present invention, channels 4 and 5 (Fig, 3) are formed in the breast surface adjacent to the opposite margins of the breast. As illustrated in Fig. 3, these channels are preferably of substantially wedge-shape in transverse section, the narrow edge of the channel being substantially coincident with theforward corner of the core,the rear wall 6 of the channel being inclined, and the thick edge 1 of the channel being substantially perpendicular to themain portion of the breast surface. The width of the channel at its edge '1 preferably is substantially equal to the thickness of the sheet material which is to be usedin covering the outer surface-of the heel. The result ofthe'formation of these channels is to provide a-very sharp-,-acute corner at thepoint 8 of the core. In the Louis type heel,

"these channels 4 and 5 extend'upwardly but pref-. 'erably gradually decrease in depth until they merge at the points l and 5*, respectively, with the forwardly directed breast surface 3* ofthe heel. However, if preferred, they may-extend to the forward edge of the breast surface.

Having prepared thecorein this manner, the

selected outer covering materialS is applied to the surface'of "the heel and secured 'firmly in place.

The margins Ill-and H (Fig. 4) of this covering are then turned in so as to lie withinthe-channels 4 and-5, respectively, themargins beingse- 'curely' cemented to the walls-6 and of the channels. In thus turning in the margins about the corner 8 of theheel core, a very sharp angle is produced, While the forward, exposed surfaces of the flaps or inturnedmargins 1 Band H substantially merge with the surface '3 ofthe-heel breast.

-A Louis heel is usually attached'to the heel seat surface of a shoe bottom in this condition, that is to-say, with its breast surface uncovered. As here illustrated, "the shoe to {which the heelis to be attachedcomprises: the upper '12 and the outer sole l3. Preparatory to applying the heel, the rear part of the outer sole is skived to produce I the thin, breast coveringfia-p l3 After the heel has been-attached, this flap- 13 is turned up against thebreast surface of theheel and is secured firmly in position by means of cement or other appropriate adhesive. This flap I3 overlaps the inturned margins l and of the outer covering material and is cemented to the forward surfaces of these flaps. Since the covering material 9 and the flap l3 usually are of a relatively soft and absorbent material, it is possible'to obtain a very firm bond between these overlapping elements, the overlap being of substantial extent. Theedges of the flap l3 are now trimmed offto lie flush with the outersurface of the heel, thus producing the effect illustrated in Fig. 6, wherein it will be'noted thatthe forward corners iii-and I! of the heel are very sharp and angular, giving the desired neat, clean-cut appearance, while the breast surface is smoothly curved andsubstan- V of the invention.

tially free from any appreciable ridges or deep hollows.

As a further refinement of this method of proand further expense and may not be necessary.

under ordinary conditions.

Referring to Figs. 7 to 11, the invention is i1- lu'strated as embodied in a heel of the Cuban type. This heel comprises a core I of wood or the like having the outer surface 2 and the breast surface 3*, the latter being substantially straight from top tobottom but usually being curved concavely in a rearward direction. This core is provided at the right and left margins of its breast surface 3 with channels 4 and (Fig. 9) of wedge-shape in cross section similar to the channels 4 and 5 above described. Preferably these channels 4* and 5 extend from topto bottom ofithe'heel.

The outer covering 9 of any suitable flexible material is secured to theouter surface .2 .of :this

core with its forward margins' I ll and ,H dis- 'posed within the channels 4 and?5 respectively,

and suitably cemented in place. Inthis case the breast covering member 13 maybe of :the same material as the outer covering! or of any other suitable'thin material appropriate for'the purpose. This covering member l3 may initially be trimmed to conform substantiallyexactly to the contour of the breast surface of the heel and is then'applied to the breast surface-by means of cement or other suitable adhesive so.asto.cover the entire breast surface, including the forwardsurfacesof the margins 10* and I i of theouter covering. The covering I3 may be. applied to the breast surface of the Cuban type heel'beforethe heel is secured to the shoe bottom, since in .this case the breast covering member 13 is not a part ofthe outer sole. "The resultofithe above method of procedure is toproduce a heel of Cuban'type having a good and permanent joint between the outer and breast covering members, and with corners which are sharp and angular, and'a breast surface which is free from ridges .or sharp'depressions' While certain desirable modes :of procedure 'have been describedtogether with 'theresulting products, it is to be understood that :equivalent steps may-be substituted for :those herein specifically described, and that the order of steps may be varied and :that theresulting. products, such as 'fallwithin'the terms of'theappended claims, are to be regardedas withingthe scope 'I claim; r

1. A heel core having-a curved outer surface which'extends forwardly to thefront corners of the core, said'core having in itsbreast surface two marginal channels each substantially wedgeshape in transverse cross -section,lthe thin edge of each channel being substantially coincident with the corresponding forward'corner of the heel core, the thicker'edge of each channel being substantially perpendicular to 'the main portion of the'breast surface and of a depth substantially equaling the thickness of thematerialtozbelused incoveringthe outer surfaceof the heel.

2. A heel comprising a core, sheet-material covering the outer surface of the core and sheet'material covering the breast surfaceof the,core,;the

breast surface of the core having' two marginal channels eachextending inwardlyfrom the corresponding corner, the inner-edge at 'least of.

each channel being substantially as deep, measured rearwardly from-the normal breast surface of the core, as the thickness of the material which covers the outer surface of the core, said outer covering material being turned in around the corners of the'core and having its margins disposed within the respective channels, the

breast covering material overlapping said in- 7 section, the thin edge of each channel being substantially coincident with the corresponding forward corner of the heel core, the thicker edge of each channel being of a depth substantially equaling the thickness of the outer covering materiaL-the margins of the outer covering material being turned inwardly around the corners of the core and being disposed and secured within the respective channels, and breast covering material overlapping the inturned margins of the outer covering with the edges of the breast covering substantially flush with the outer surface of the heel adjacent to the corners thereof, and means permanently securing the breast covering in position.

4.- A core for a Louis shoe heel having in its breast surface two marginal channels extending from the tread surface of the core upwardly but gradually vanishing in the upper, forwardly directed portion of the breast surface of the core, said channels being substantially wedge-shape in transverse section with the thinner edge of the channel substantially coincident with the corresponding forward corner of the core, the thicker edges of the channels, at their deepest portions, being of a depth substantially equaling the thickness of the material to be applied for covering the outer surface of the core.

5. That method of making heels which comprises as steps providing a heel core having a breast surface, forming in said breast surface marginal channels each substantially wedgeshape in transverse section, the thin edges of the channels being substantially coincident with the corresponding forward corners of the core, securing flexible covering material to the outer surface of the core, turning the forward margins of the covering material inwardly about the forward corners of the core, disposing and securing said margins in the respective channels, applying and securing a flexible breast covering material to the breast surface so as to overlap the inturned margins of said outer covering, and trimming the breast covering material so that its edges are substantially flush with the outer surface of the heel adjacent to the corners of the latter.

6. That method of making and covering a Louis heel which comprises as steps preparing a heel core having a breast surface of Louis shape, forming in said breast surface marginal channels each of substantially wedge-shape in transverse section, each channel extending upwardly from the tread surface of the core but gradually vanishing in the upwardly, forwardly directed portion of the breast surface, the thin edges of the channels being substantially coincident with the forward corners of the core, securing flexible covering material to the outer surface of the core, turning the margins of said covering material inwardly about the forward corners of the core and securing said margins in the respective channels, laying a breast covering flap, constituting an integral portion of an outer sole, against the breast surface of the core with the edges of said flap overlying the turned-in margins of the outer covering material, securing the breast covering flap in position, and trimming the edges 

